From St. Gallen to the wide world: How bluesign is changing the textile industry for good

bluesign technologies ag, based at Mövenstrasse 18 in St.Gallen, is one of the world's leading companies for sustainability standards in the textile industry. With the bluesign system, the company sets strict criteria for environmental, social and safety standards along the entire textile supply chain - from the chemicals used to the finished product. Over 900 partner companies worldwide, including brands such as Patagonia, VAUDE and Adidas, rely on this system. In this interview, Dr. Daniel Waterkamp, Head of bluesign Academy, explains why St.Gallen has been such a formative location for the development of the company, what trends will shape the textile industry in the future and how bluesign is setting new standards for sustainability with innovative solutions such as the Digital Product Passport.

Can you briefly explain what exactly bluesign technologies ag does and how you set sustainability standards in the textile industry?

Bluesign offers a comprehensive system for improving environmental and social compatibility along the entire textile supply chain. This includes textile chemical producers, textile manufacturers and brands. The bluesign system defines strict requirements - the bluesign criteria - in the areas of management systems, emissions (air, water, waste), chemical management, occupational safety, social standards, resource management and product safety.Companies that fulfill the bluesign criteria for production facilities are called bluesign system partners and can certify their goods (textile chemicals, materials and end products) according to separate bluesign product standards. Certified textile auxiliaries, dyes, materials and end products carry the bluesign Approved and bluesign Product labels and meet high safety and sustainability requirements.

A particular focus of the bluesign system is on input stream management. Instead of only testing the end products, bluesign starts with the raw materials and chemicals used. In this way, harmful substances are excluded at an early stage. The bluesign criteria are regularly checked independently by specially trained, highly qualified auditors. Bluesign works with over 900 system partners worldwide, including leading brands such as Patagonia, VAUDE and Adidas.

Why did bluesign technologies decide to locate in St. Gallen and what advantages does the region offer your company?

The textile industry has deep historical roots in St. Gallen. Especially in the founding years of bluesign, the region was still peppered with excellent, world-renowned companies. This environment has helped bluesign to become one of the leading companies in the field of sustainable textiles.

What significance do sustainable production standards have for Swiss textile companies - particularly with regard to ecological and economic benefits? How does compliance with bluesign standards affect the competitiveness and market position of companies?

Sustainable production standards are easier to achieve with a technological edge and a highly developed legal framework. Both are in place in Switzerland. The bluesign system includes a rating for production companies. Within the framework of the system partnership with bluesign, Swiss textile companies are able to make their ecological and social excellence visible and thus also benefit economically.

What developments and trends do you currently see in the area of sustainable textile production that are also relevant for companies in St.Gallen?

A major general trend, which incidentally does not only affect the textile industry, is the need for a solid sustainability strategy at company level that follows a recognized standard. These include the ESRS (European Sustainability Reporting Standard) and GRI (Global Reporting Initiative). These standards describe a structured and detailed approach to how sustainable business can be achieved in all its complexity. In the near future, even smaller companies will be forced to set themselves measurable targets in areas such as CO2 emissions, resource consumption, occupational safety, use of chemicals and many more, and to report publicly on their progress on an annual basis. Blueisgn can help to provide valuable, verified data here - at product, company and value chain level.

What innovative projects or technologies are you planning to further promote sustainability in textile production?

Bluesign is a pioneer when it comes to reducing the impact of textile production. Our mission is to continue to set new standards for sustainable business through the implementation of BAT (Best Available Technology) and effective input stream management. Our integrated system of chemical manufacturers, textile companies and brands provides the ideal conditions to quantify the impact of the textile supply chain on people and the environment and to make improvements visible. Our solutions for the Digital Product Passport, for example, will benefit our customers and society, ensure greater transparency and lead to sustainable product design. The implementation of the bluesign system with its 'impact data' makes it easier for our customers to navigate through the jungle of new sustainability requirements and cover important requirements.